Saturday, March 13, 2010
Arrivée à Paris
Bojour de Paris, my friends. Yes the City of Lights and I are happy to be back together again. Arriving here was as strange as seeing a friend from long ago, even though I never knew Paris in such a cold month. Now, yes I went to college in Minnesota, but we didn't spend our time outdoors for longer than 10 minutes if possible. 30 degrees in a city with windy streets can be quite overwhelming, even for so,eone familiar with the unrelenting prarie winters.
My arrival:
After a grueling 9 hour flight on which I got a total of 2 hours of sleep (and also... I watched 'New Moon', and I am ashamed. BUT it was on a plane. I have no other excuse) I arrived totally exhausted but excited in Paris CDG. After whisking through passport control and finding my way to the RER train platform, I sat on the rumbling train waiting to arrive in the city.
I met my very good friend Aurélie at her office. She works for the Senat building RIGHT next to Luxumbourg Gardens. She gave me a remarkable tour of the building and I even got to see some things that tourists don't get to visit. I took many pictures all of which I will post when I come home and reunite with convenient electronic access.
The apartment:
Leqving the Senat we took the metro to the 20émé (20th district) where the apartment I'm using is. The scent of aged urine, cigarette smoke and 'metro rot smell' (it's really not the worst metro I've been in, but some stations are worse than others) filled the air as we waited and then shot through the intestinal system of Paris at high speeds. All of this seemed to happy so quickly and before I realized it, we were at the apartment building. I was hardly surprised by how small it was. Cozy is the proper word. A small red couch that pulls out as a bed, ikea minimalist closet, teeny kitchen complete with a tall table and stolls, and a bathroom made for one person to stand in. Also, the ceiling is falling off in the bathroom. A piece fell into the shower (luckily I had JUST gotten out) last night. It's a perfect little space for me. My two bright windows look out at the other building across from mine (a more attractive building, but I'd rather look at an attractive building than be inside one and look at a plain building). Again, it's perfect and I love every quirk.
After seeing the apartment, Aurélie showed me around the neighborhood. We stopped in a bakery where I had an incredible tarte with egg, tomato, zuccini and cheese. Apparently I was starving because I ate the tarte like I hadn't eaten anything in days. Also, my tastebuds were excited by the new and wonderful mix of flavors. And finally, I xas high on adrenaleine and doing almost anything to keep it up. Snarfing down tartes in a glutunous manner was one way I chose to do this.
Encounter #1 with CHANEL:
two days ago I took the metro to Opéra, arguably the most expensive quartiér in Paris, to look around and enjoy myself. Opéra is of course the place where the world famous Opéra Garnier is found (also the 'stage' for the well-known 'Phantome de L'Opéra')as well as some of my favorite architecture in the whole city. Each building has flowing rows of wraught iron balconies and towering marble buildings. It is also the home of 'Les Printemps', a high-end fashion 'gallery' where all of the world's best designers can be found. Naturally I gravitated towards EACH of the CHANEL boutiques (jewelry, handbags/accesories, clothing, ect.). I felt like the ragged Cinderella in her tattered clothes next to the exquisite diamonds and endless chains of pearls. I reached out gingerly to touch the seems of a black tweed jacket. I basked in the art. Before leaving 'Printemps' I bought a sigle macaron (as seen in Marie Antoinette) in the flavor of rose petals from the famous little café in the store called 'Ladurée' (I highly recommend the experience if you like clothes, pretty things, or cookies of many diffferent colors). There was this whole promotional display for the new 'Alice in Wonderland', complete with a giant tea table where you can take tea like Alice and eat macarons to your heart's desire. I didn't ask how much it would cost to have this experience. I noted the slough of Japanese tourists and thougt of better uses for my supply of Euros. Perhaps I'll recreate the experience when I come home.
CHANEL encounter #2 (In the same day!!!):
Walking away from Opéra is yet another expensive quartier. I must say, this one is probably more expensive than Opéra. I stumbled into 'La Place des Concordes' (gorgeous- do take a moment to google it for an image) and to my left was a CHANEL boutique. I trembled with excitement. I hadn't thought to go in, but I asked myself 'why not?'. It was a strange experience, though beautiful still. Apparently this was the boutique for CHANEL in Paris specializing in diamonds!!!! It was amazing! Even so, I couldn't help but feel the scornful looks of the patrons and staff. 'What is she doing here?' their expressions seemed to say. I will admit that while the boutique and its diamonds were exquisite, I felt out of place. I felt somewhat sullen, but I tried to remember that CHANEL herself was once very poor. Would she appreciate my bold entrance into a world that is not mine but one I adore? I'd like to think she would. If not, I appreciate the juxtaposition, and I'm glad I can peek into the beautiful satin boxes of places I don't belong and enjoy them without shame.
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